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Listvyanka Blog
When we finally arrived in Irkutsk, our driver was on hand to meet us at the train and take us the one-hour drive to Listvyanka, a small village of 2500 on the west side of the lake. The landscape on the drive and in the village is exactly the same as Southern Ontario or the foothills of Alberta in Canada. There was a coating of 1cm of snow on the tree branches, as there was the entire length of the rail line so far. The trees were firs and birch.
We stayed at the Baikal Terema Hotel, a nice bright log cabin hotel, situated on a small hill. Our room overlooked the lake in the near distance. It was from here that we really appreciated the beauty of the lake for the first time. Lining the east side of the like is the snowy Sayan Mountain chain stretching as for north and south as you can see. It is quite beautiful, but not always visible if it is snowing or if there is steam from the still-unfrozen lake.
As we were driven in through the town, it struck home just how small this place was in the middle of nowhere (or Siberia, to be precise). We wondered what we would do for the next three days.
As soon as we were settled, we walked down the hill, to the main road, and down that to the Limnological Museum (Museum of Baikal). The main attraction there was a less-than-exciting aquarium and a couple of freshwater seals (who only exist in Lake Baikal). This was a 3.5 km walk one way. We were both pleased that in spite of nine years living in temperate climates, we could still hack the cold just like we used to in Canada. The temperature there was about -15°C (earlier on some of the night time train stops it was -23° out on the platforms).
On the way back we stopped at the bar and had a few drinks. The place was deserted and we played some form of pool. The table was rickety and had very tight pockets. There were fifteen heavy all-white balls and one maroon one. We had a long game, pretty much having to smash every shot. We have since discovered that the white balls and tight pockets are common around here.
We went back to the hotel, had a nap, and went right back to the bar and had supper at the restaurant upstairs. I had a pretty decent Baikal-fish soup and OK fish main course. We haven't really had a full decent meal since we left London and I am learning that I can live on half my usual portions of food.
The next day we rented snowmobiles for an hour. A guide took us through some easy trails at low speed for ten minutes, then let us play on our own in an open space for ten minutes, presumably so he could gauge our skill. After that he picked up the pace and took us on smaller more scenic advanced trails. It was a lot of fun. Just as we were returning we came across the two whining girls we met on the train. They were walking along dragging their cross-country skis behind them; they were definitely not having fun on this trip. So we gunned the snowmobiles obnoxiously, waving as we roared by them. It was fun.
Then we walked down to the port and looked at the tourist souvenirs and fresh fish. Will bought one and ate it; he said it wasn't bad. Then we spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing at a bar there drinking beer, vodka, and tea as we looked out at the lake. This was where all the traders were hanging out when there were no customers outside.
We decided then and there to leave Listvyanka the next day and go to Irkutsk at day early. This was met with all sorts of resistance on all fronts, but we were stubborn and succeeded.
Eric - from Irkutsk